Q: I found a friendly cat outside. I think it is lost/hungry/stray/seeking a home. What should I do?
Hyde Park Cats would like to empower you to help the cat you have found.
First, ask yourself if this is not a stray cat, but your neighbor’s cat who is out. Use your best judgment (is it filthy? struggling mightily to get your attention? skinny? no collar?). Keep your eye out for this cat. It might turn into a stray cat!
If you think it is a stray or homeless cat, we encourage you to help.
If you take the cat into your home, keep it separate from any resident pets. Place the cat in a small room with a litter box and food. A bathroom is a good option—something with a door and tile floors. Don’t worry too much about a litter box. Cats will naturally use a box, you can fill it with shredded newspaper if you can’t get litter.
If you decide you want to keep the cat you should still attempt to find the owner, so:
Contact us with information and a photo of the cat.
Place an ad in the Hyde Park Herald and marketplace.uchicago.edu.
We’ll advertise the cat in our lost-and-found section on Facebook and our lost-and-found coordinator will communicate with you to try and reunite the cat with a possible owner.
Take the cat to a vet to be scanned for a microchip. This is a free service.
Post fliers around the block where you found the cat.
Post fliers elsewhere (vet, pet market, grocery store).
If you don’t want to keep the cat, but can foster it for a while, during which time we seek adopters, we will gladly put the kitty into our adoption program!
If you can’t keep the cat at all:
We may be able to place the kitty in a foster home. Availability is limited, but we will try. It may take an hour or a week. We ask that you help us by taking the cat to the vet and having it scanned for a microchip and checked for general health, including information on age, gender, and possible spay/neuter status. Sometimes we are filled, but we always want to help stray Hyde Park Cats.
However, our foster space is very limited and if you, the finder, can help out, it dramatically increases our ability to help the kitty!
If you want to bypass Hyde Park Cats:
Stray cats may be admitted to Treehouse Humane Society, a no-kill shelter. Space is limited. This is a wonderful shelter that only works with stray and abused cats. You cannot relinquish your own cat to Treehouse, but it’s a great place to try and place a stray you have found.
You can try other shelters such as PAWS Chicago or a shelter from this list.
Finally, The City of Chicago Animal Care and Control, 2741 S. Western Ave., is open from 7am until 11 p.m., seven days a week for drop-off. Animal Welfare League is also available for drop off at either location (check website). These are not no-kill shelters and may euthanize any animal brought in. However, we STRONGLY encourage you to bring a cat to one of these shelters rather than dumping an animal on the street. Abandoning an animal is ILLEGAL and inhumane.
Please remember that Hyde Park Cats is a community organization made up of volunteers working on their own time. We are not paid for our work. We do not have a physical shelter but depend on foster homes and the goodwill and civic-mindedness of our community. We cannot always respond to immediate, urgent, or emergency needs.
Q: OMG I FOUND A KITTEN
If the mother cat is with the kittens and seems to be in good health, super. She will do a lot of the work for you, and your task will be to make sure she’s healthy by taking her to the veterinarian right away.
But what if you found just some kittens? Take them in. If they are outside they will grow up to be feral cats and contribute to the feral-cat problem. HOWEVER — it is possible to use those kittens to trap the mother cat. Please let us know as soon as possible and we can try to set up a trapping situation.
There are times when you find just a kitten and it seems like the right thing to do to bring it inside. Your kitten should go as soon as possible to the vet for assessment and to get a dose of Revolution, which kills ear mites, internal parasites, and fleas.
Newborn kittens should be examined by your veterinarian at the earliest possible time. Litters from ferals or of unknown parentage often suffer from fleas and other parasites, and do not have the normal natural immunity passed on in early weeks from vaccinated mother cats. While kittens nursing a protected queen get their first “shots” around six to eight weeks, orphaned/feral kittens may be immunized at two to three weeks. Of course, kittens showing signs of distress, such as prolonged chilling, watery eyes or running nose, lethargy or failure to eat, should be seen immediately by a veterinarian.
You’ll want to arrange a “nest” for your kittens. This can be a carrier, a basket, or even a cardboard box lined with clean towels. If you have other cats in your home, the kittens MUST be isolated in a separate room, and you MUST wash your hands both before and after caring for them. It might be easiest to put them in a small room, such as a bathroom.
Basic Needs of Newborn Kittens
Warmth:
A chilled kitten can die quickly, and is considered a veterinary emergency. You can warm the kitten by holding it next to your own skin, or by using a heating pad, set to “Low”,a well-wrapped with a thick towel or a flannel sheet. Make sure there is plenty of unheated surface in the box so the kittens can move away from the heat source if they become too warm. Feeding a chilled kitten can be fatal, so wait until its temperature is up to it’s normal range of 95° F to 99° F before attempting to feed it. If a kitten’s temperature falls below 94° F, it must be warmed gradually to avoid metabolic shock. At the same time, give it Pedialyte (the same stuff sold for human babies) to hydrate it and prevent shock.
Nourishment:
You’ll need K.M.R. (replacement milk for kittens) or equivalent, available from pet stores, and a feeder of some sort (either a bottle, syringe, or eye-dropper.) The K.M.R. box will include instructions for feeding by weight of the kitten. Tiny babies will need to eat as many as 12 meals around the clock, so plan on 2 a.m. feedings.
At three weeks or so, you can start training the babies to eat food in a dish. Do so by mixing either dry or canned kitten food with the milk formula and mush it until it is a thick liquid. Go ahead and use your blender, and pretend you’re making a milkshake. You’ll probably need to “prime“ the kitty by putting a bit of the mixture on your finger tip, then showing him/her the saucer. As the kitten learns to eat and enjoy their mush, you can gradually reduce the amount of milk replacement formula.
Finally, she can graduate to solid kitten food. Ideally, you should start kittens out with a premium brand of canned kitten food. Canned food remaining in the can should be covered and refrigerated immediately after opening and the next serving can be warmed in a microwave for just a minute or so. Uneaten canned food in the plate should also not be left out after the kitten has had his/her fill, as it can spoil rapidly. Since kittens’ tummies are small, the best plan is to give four or five small meals a day. Some cat owners provide dry food to be eaten at will, supplemented with a small serving of canned food once or twice a day, however for optimum nutritional benefits, a canned diet is better.
At the same time your kitten is learning to eat from a dish, he/she can also learn to drink water from a dish. Use a sturdy ceramic bowl and place it where the kitten can find it easily. You may have to dabble your fingers in the water at first to show the kitten what it is. Don’t be surprised if there is a little splashing and water fun before kitty discovers it is to be taken internally.
Nurturing
Nurturing consists of the various tasks the mother kitten would perform, and also includes bonding with the kitten.
Elimination – Newborns need help in moving their bowels and flushing their kidneys. The mother cat does this by washing their tushies (bums) with her tongue. You can accomplish the same by holding the kitty (put a towel over your lap first) and gently stroking it’s body with a rough towel or washcloth. Do the same thing with its abdomen and tush. You should be rewarded with a bowel movement after every meal and soon will not need to give this assistance.
Kitty Massage – Same thing, only lightly stroke the kitty’s whole body, starting with its head, around the cheeks and chin, shoulders, limbs, and finally back and belly. Massage is a good way to bond with your kitten, and will prepare the kitten for adapting more easily to a new home, if that is in the future.
Grooming – The mother cat combines grooming with massage by using the rough tongue given her by nature. You can use a soft brush to brush your kitten’s hair – another tool for bonding. Also, if very young kittens have fleas, use a flea comb to gently comb them out. (Be sure to put a towel or newspaper under the kitten to catch the fleas and flea dirt).
The Litter Box
Kittens will normally take to the litterbox as quickly as ducks to water. Use a low-sided box, like the lid to a shoe box would work. A pellet-type litter is generally recommended, but not the clumping style. Kittens will experiment with eating litter and the clumping type is murder on the intestines. Once the kitten starts eating on its own, just put in the box around 15 minutes after eating. Scratch the litter a bit with your finger to show the kitten what it’s all about. If the kitten hops out, put him/her back in again a couple times, then leave alone. If the kitten makes a mistake and poops on the floor, pick a small amount up and put it in the box to show him/her where it belongs. The kitten will get the idea sooner or later, most likely sooner.
Veterinary Care
